Couple of problems with this procedure. First of all, it you don't have your special FIAT tool number 60163 handy you're out of luck. Secondly, I assume that you then need to apply cement to the engine side of the gasket prior to installation. Thirdly, it does not explain the gasket cutting/fitting procedures that you MUST go through in order to get a good fit. Therefore I offer you my tips:

Lalo's Tips

It is NOT necessary to apply any sealant/cement to the gasket. In fact, I recomment against it. I strongly recommend against the use of RTV or Silicone sealants. If you insist on using them, please use a LIGHT amount so as to keep excess sealant from being squeezed into the oil pan. This stuff can clog the oil pump pick-up and do all sorts of nasty things inside the engine. Having said that, let's move on.

The pan gasket is really four individual pieces. Two long thin rubberized cork bits for the sides and two thick 'bars' of cork for the flywheel and pulley ends. Here's the two thick cork pieces laid out on their respective sides of the pan. Note that one is longer than the other. In order to install them you may need to 'squish' them in your vice. I rarely find this to be necessary, but every now and then you get a cork that is just too big to get into the slot. All you need to do is put it in your vice and squeeze it gently and it will fit right in. As you can see, when they are placed in their slots the ends are about an inch longer than they need to be. You need to cut the extra length off with a sharp razor blade. The cut needs to be made 1/8" from the top surface of the pan.

The cut must be parallel to the top of the oil pan as shown. I use the razor to mark where the cut needs to be made. This picture clearly demonstrates the location and orientation of the cut. After marking both sides with the razor I remove the cork from the pan and finish the cut on the table. The reason for this is that it is very difficult to get a straight clean cut with the cork flapping in the breeze. By laying it flat on the table I can get a perfectly straight cut.

Here's the finished product. Both corks have been marked, removed, cut and reinstalled. Note that they are now protruding 1/8" from the top surface of the pan and are also parallel to it.

The next step is to prepare the side pieces. They must also be trimmed for a good fit. I find that at the very ends where they meet the raised sections of the aluminum oil seal carriers they are always too long. I usually trim around 1/16" to 1/8" from the ends to ensure that they fit just right. It is at this location where the secret to oil tightness lies. For those of you who love RTV or Silicon sealants, this one's for you. Apply a SMALL bead of sealant along the gasket edge as pictured. It is at this point that the thich cork edges that you trimmed meet the side pieces of cork. If no sealant is applied at this point there is a high probability of leakage due to the complex joint. Now put the pan in place. Install ALL the bolts BEFORE tightening any of them. If you do not the gasket sides might move on you as you tighten the bolts and getting subsequent bolts installed will be a pain. In this picture the bolts are installed but not tight yet. I begin tightening the two bolts on each end first, ie the two on the flywheel end and the two on the crank end. This is to get the cork to come into contact with the sealant. Then work your way around the pan tightening all the bolts to a torque spec of 7-11 ft-lbs. The higher the better, but no so much that the gasket is visually distorted due to the compressive forces. In this specific case pictured 7 ft-lbs was perfect.

After running the engine for a couple of heat cycles it is necessary to check the torque on the bolts once more. I usually find that I need to go around and re-torque them to 7-11 ft-lbs.